Sterling Water Tank Selector

Glen Bundesen

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Jan 12, 2014
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Don't enjoy having to get down to change the tank selector over - usually a tank will run out at night!
Has anyone else replaced the Jayco tank selector with a better system?
My solution was to put in 2 solenoids on my Coromal, but have sold it and wondering if there is a more efficient solution. My problem was there was a slight battery drain if you left them switched on, as I wired them via electrical A/B selector. Just need some ideas how to only have the solenoid only switched on while the pump is running - ideas?
 

Glen Bundesen

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Jan 12, 2014
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Suggested mod from another forum:
The solenoids are from Bunnings - made for garden water systems.
Just put a DPDT switch in the van.
The extra loop is just in case of a malfunction you can go back to a manual control system.
The wiring is done so it goes from the Tank Selector (dpdt switch) to the solenoid from the pump. Use the positive wire between the pressure switch and the pump to attach the positive+ wire which goes to the tank solenoid switches. Once a tank is selected, the solenoid will open at the tuning on of a tap.
1530181470953.png
 
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achjimmy

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I’ve thought about this. I hate getting under the van too cause it’s usualy muddy when I have too! Looked at the solenoids and tbh just don’t want the complication. Additionally I don’t like the plastic pipe coming under the chassis rail and the exposure of the existing valve . Pretty much decided going to bring all 3 pipes up inside the kitchen cupboard and install a 3 way valve like this.

A087DFB6-23BE-4082-9E8C-91ED5B874980.png
 
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Glen Bundesen

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Hi Achjimmy
I agree with you about not having the pipes going under the chassis, so my intention is to reroute what already goes under the rail to all stay on the inside of the chassis. To protect it, I might bend up a protective shield and use JG pipe as well as fittings.

The coromal had manual valves in the cupboard, but again you had to get down on the floor to access them, so that is why I put in the solenoids - still in the cupboard.
 
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achjimmy

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Hi Achjimmy
I agree with you about not having the pipes going under the chassis, so my intention is to reroute what already goes under the rail to all stay on the inside of the chassis. To protect it, I might bend up a protective shield and use JG pipe as well as fittings.

The coromal had manual valves in the cupboard, but again you had to get down on the floor to access them, so that is why I put in the solenoids - still in the cupboard.


I guess raising the valve above the tanks may not be ideall as well?
 

millers

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Mar 25, 2011
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Glen,
Another way is to use a 3 way valve that is controlled by a solenoid, but once activated and power is removed the valve stays in the set position. Could not find a specific unit that would suit but here is a link to what I am talking about. https://www.industrialcontrolsonline.com/asco-8320-series
I have removed the tap on the frame and replaced it with single taps closer to the tanks so I can select any tank to pressure or drinking. All manual though.
I would suggest that the solenoid option can also get complicated. Not sure if you can get a single solenoid (open/closed) that will hold position with power removed. Like the 3 way, but would need two inputs to activate. My though would be that the 3-way would do the job of 2 open/closed ones anyway. Then the DPDT switch is replaced by a 3 position double momentary.
You have already indicated that solenoids need to be driven from the pressure switch on the pump. Need to be careful about the solenoid failing as this could mean that the pump will be sucking on a closed valve. The 3-way valves that hold position may have options for manual switching in case of electrical failure.
And finally some of them will come with indicator circuits to indicate position so that you can wire up some LEDs to use to indicate position.
Good luck with it, the manual valves I installed are inline with the current tank protection.
 

Glen Bundesen

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Jan 12, 2014
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Perth WA
Glen,
Another way is to use a 3 way valve that is controlled by a solenoid, but once activated and power is removed the valve stays in the set position. Could not find a specific unit that would suit but here is a link to what I am talking about. https://www.industrialcontrolsonline.com/asco-8320-series
I have removed the tap on the frame and replaced it with single taps closer to the tanks so I can select any tank to pressure or drinking. All manual though.
I would suggest that the solenoid option can also get complicated. Not sure if you can get a single solenoid (open/closed) that will hold position with power removed. Like the 3 way, but would need two inputs to activate. My though would be that the 3-way would do the job of 2 open/closed ones anyway. Then the DPDT switch is replaced by a 3 position double momentary.
You have already indicated that solenoids need to be driven from the pressure switch on the pump. Need to be careful about the solenoid failing as this could mean that the pump will be sucking on a closed valve. The 3-way valves that hold position may have options for manual switching in case of electrical failure.
And finally some of them will come with indicator circuits to indicate position so that you can wire up some LEDs to use to indicate position.
Good luck with it, the manual valves I installed are inline with the current tank protection.

These solenoids are not cheap but they do stay in the set position even when the power is off!
https://www.topargee.com.au/motorised-valves.html

I've visited the big green shed and started to build 2 setups as per the picture I inserted in the 2nd post.. Will update once I have tried them out.
 

Crusty181

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@Glen Bundesen I have an inline Normally Open 12v Micro Solenoid on the mains pressure JG line directly behind the vans mains pressure filler inlet. My valve remains open and does nothing until it is powered. These valves are high pressure, non restrictive flow, 0.6amp, cycling in under 1 sec .... and most importantly are cheap at around $20.

My solenoid is wired directly to the water pump. My need was to have easy and switchless access the vans tank water whilst connected to a mains without needing to go outside and turn the mains tap off, and importantly without having a required constant power to operate. When the Drifter pump switch is activated the solenoid shuts off the mains and the pump is able to drawer only from the tanks, when the Drifter pump switch is turned off the solenoid opens the mains and returns the van to mains pressure. Has been working very well for 4 years now, and in the event it fails ..... nothing happens and everything still works

An inconsequential byproduct is the toilet also shuts of the mains whilst its flushing and also the solenoid briefly shuts whenever we use the pump when off the grid freecamping. These brief activations are negligible and doest affect my battery life so I can live with it

As you suggest, adding a Normally Closed 12v Micro Solenoid to each tank line with the solenoid wired through a A/B switch to the water pump will work fine. Mine does

Im not sure Id bother with the bypass, seem very convoluted for a what if. A simpler alternative would be use Normally Open 12v Micro Solenoid and label the switch in reverse, so selecting the switch labelled "Front Tank" actually just closes off the Rear Tank. That way a system failure would just leave both tanks open. I think I would prefer that anyway.

Jayco tanks will decant between themselves ie all water in the rear tank going uphill and all water in the front tank going down hill. Inline check valves would stop that in the Normally Open 12v Micro Solenoid setup
 
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achjimmy

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@Glen Bundesen I have an inline Normally Open 12v Micro Solenoid on the mains pressure JG line directly behind the vans mains pressure filler inlet. My valve remains open and does nothing until it is powered. These valves are high pressure, non restrictive flow, 0.6amp, cycling in under 1 sec .... and most importantly are cheap at around $20.

My solenoid is wired directly to the water pump. My need was to have easy and switchless access the vans tank water whilst connected to a mains without needing to go outside and turn the mains tap off, and importantly without having a required constant power to operate. When the Drifter pump switch is activated the solenoid shuts off the mains and the pump is able to drawer only from the tanks, when the Drifter pump switch is turned off the solenoid opens the mains and returns the van to mains pressure. Has been working very well for 4 years now, and in the event it fails ..... nothing happens and everything still works

An inconsequential byproduct is the toilet also shuts of the mains whilst its flushing and also the solenoid briefly shuts whenever we use the pump when off the grid freecamping. These brief activations are negligible and doest affect my battery life so I can live with it

As you suggest, adding a Normally Closed 12v Micro Solenoid to each tank line with the solenoid wired through a A/B switch to the water pump will work fine. Mine does

Im not sure Id bother with the bypass, seem very convoluted for a what if. A simpler alternative would be use Normally Open 12v Micro Solenoid and label the switch in reverse, so selecting the switch labelled "Front Tank" actually just closes off the Rear Tank. That way a system failure would just leave both tanks open. I think I would prefer that anyway.

Jayco tanks will decant between themselves ie all water in the rear tank going uphill and all water in the front tank going down hill. Inline check valves would stop that in the Normally Open 12v Micro Solenoid setup


Wow impressive setup mate few Qs

Why the need to shut off the inlet crusty?

Do you think the tanks decant that fast through the small pipes that it’s really an issue?

Got a link to the solenoids?
 

Crusty181

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Wow impressive setup mate few Qs

Why the need to shut off the inlet crusty?

Do you think the tanks decant that fast through the small pipes that it’s really an issue?

Got a link to the solenoids?
With our little old 16.49, mains sink tap and seperate tank hand pump. Easy. New special big expensive 20.63, mains sink tap ........ and nothing else. I struggled to work out how to get the wonderful Melb water out of the tanks when the mains hose was connected. Melb may be many things, but the water quality is second to none. That's only served to make us a little previous, and often our destination water not as wonderful as our Melb water .... our wonderful Melb water which is stuck in the damn tank.

Theres no way to access tank water not tainted with mains water without turning off the caravan park mains tap. Without a hand pump (or solenoid) the only way to allow the pump to pickup just the tank water by turning off the mains the mains. With the solenoid installed, because the pump charges it, I dont actually do anything and its all very hands off. The pump activates the solenoid to temporarily shut off the mains inlet and pump just tank water, opening up the mains again when my drink bottle or kettle is full of special Melb water.

I wouldnt otherwise expect the water to move around between tanks at all really, but practical experience has proved otherwise. If I leave my van parked down hill, the entire rear tank will end up in the front tank. If the hill puts the rear tank up around the filler height the front tank will fill and then start leaking out the fillers and breathers. No biggy, just is

www.HillsIrrigation.com.au

I have the Normally Open which are relatively difficult to find, for obvious reasons. Who wants stops the otherwise open flow

20MM MV80 12VDC MICRO NC SOLENOID VALVE

20MM MV80 12VDC MICRO NO SOLENOID VALVE


MV75 80 12VDC-350x350.jpg
 
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Glen Bundesen

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Have put together the 2 solenoid fittings (without the off/on tap between tank and solenoid. Located the red (+) wire from pressure switch to pump, spliced in the tank selector switch and all good. Only issue was the water input non return valve failed and water is spurting out when pumping from tanks! Thought the off solenoid was allowing water to bypass somehow then read there is a non return vale inside the tap water inlet connection. Will remove inards of the fitting and insert a JG non return valve in the inlet pipe

All ready for our van shake down trip up north.
 

Glen Bundesen

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Just back from chasing the wildflowers up north and the Water Tank Selector works a treat - would recommend that upgrade to anyone who is sick of manually changing tanks by getting under the van!
 
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Crusty181

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Just back from chasing the wildflowers up north and the Water Tank Selector works a treat - would recommend that upgrade to anyone who is sick of manually changing tanks by getting under the van!
one or the other of the valves would need to be powered up all the time?
 

Glen Bundesen

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Hi Crusty
No - solenoid not powered all time. Suggestion from another forum...
Use the positive wire between the pressure switch and the pump to attach the positive+ wire which goes to the tank solenoid switches. When a tank is selected, the solenoid will open at the tuning on of a tap - ie the pump starts as the pressure drops and the solenoid is powered. Works a treat - a lot better than my previous solution of using a inline pneumatic switch!
 
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achjimmy

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So looking at this again. I’ve found 12v activated ball valves. Won’t they be better given they need no power other than that to activate !
@Crusty181 i read somewhere you said 2 tanks was more than enough water and you never really had an issue finding water? Trying to decide between 2 or 3 tanks ? I do have 3 tanks but was thinking of dedicating 1 tank to only drinking water with separate pump filter ?
 

Glen Bundesen

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I recall the activated ball valves were quite expensive? But if they aren't then they would be ideal to save power...
I was limited by the width of tanks that would fit between the cross member under the floor. I used 2 tanks - 1 to capture the sink water (fitted in front of the axles) and 1 for the shower and ensuite basin (fitted behind the axles). Worked on the assumption that we would also be consuming drinking water and therefore should have enough capacity to hold several days of waste water.
 

achjimmy

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I recall the activated ball valves were quite expensive? But if they aren't then they would be ideal to save power...
I was limited by the width of tanks that would fit between the cross member under the floor. I used 2 tanks - 1 to capture the sink water (fitted in front of the axles) and 1 for the shower and ensuite basin (fitted behind the axles). Worked on the assumption that we would also be consuming drinking water and therefore should have enough capacity to hold several days of waste water.

Thanks Glen yeah I am gunna have another tack for waste.
 

Crusty181

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So looking at this again. I’ve found 12v activated ball valves. Won’t they be better given they need no power other than that to activate !
@Crusty181 i read somewhere you said 2 tanks was more than enough water and you never really had an issue finding water? Trying to decide between 2 or 3 tanks ? I do have 3 tanks but was thinking of dedicating 1 tank to only drinking water with separate pump filter ?
Good memory Jim. Ive do have 2 x 20ltr jerrys on the drawer bar and also a 30ltr in the back of the ute so basically a third tank equivalent. The 30ltr is just a do-all, grey water, feet washing, portable shower, soak my camera after a day at the beach, and rinse beach clothes. I will fill all the jerrys if we are planning to spend as much time as possible off the grid and where we are heading there will be no water, potable or otherwise. I could count of one hand the times we've "needed" the jerrys, in one instance we camped on the beach for 10 days and aside from as much sea water as you wanted, there wasn't a drop of other water. But I use a portable shower when freecamping; we dont use the van shower. I can use any water source for that shower leaving the van tanks just for drinking. Removing the van shower from tank requirements and the 2 van tanks will easily last us 3 weeks .... but showering outside with the portable shower isnt for everyone. We shower every single day and with just the 160 ltrs in the vans tanks and showering each day we can get 8 days, but thats using the portable shower. With the jerrys filled we can get 12 days, and with a alternative non potable water source for the portable shower, indefinitely

Finding water was incredibly easy. My best guess before heading remote north was that finding consistent water supplies would be the killer. I was astounded by how readily available it was. Certainly not like Metro Melb or Sydney, but much more common than I would have otherwise guessed. The Nullarbor roadhouses were the only place you simply wouldnt get water, but unless your planning on spending 2 weeks on the Nullarbor thats no biggy. Coral Bay the town with no taps !!!!!, so that was a little more tricky. Neither of the 2 x c/parks have mains water on sites, but they have a couple of potable taps located at the shower blocks. We just decanted after dark, before moving on :o

As for grey water, I can only remember a handful of places that required capture and in every case, our 30ltr do-all jerry was acceptable. Julia Creek's policy is a good example which makes sense. Your welcome to camp on the waters edge, but understandably they dont want grey wastes pouring into it. If you choose to camp on the waters edge capture your grey water in anything you like, and simply walk it 50 mtrs away and pour it on the very grateful flora.
 

Drover

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I remember another thread about this from way back and thinking I could go that way but since the pump is inside the van along with the 2 tank valves which I have found all works okay I left well enough alone. Pump in a small cupboard away from everything else and unlike the 14.44 if it leaks its contained so didn't do the move mob.
I'm most impressed with the set ups you fellas have come up with and many will be thankful for no piccies @Crusty181 ...lol,lol.
 
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