Solar The Solar Panel Thread

[Absolutelylost]

Hi there @mikerezny , @G Daddy , @Bellbirdweb and @Eddii , here is the updated amended diagram of how I have connected up my MPPT controller to the Setec so that everything works. The following tests and observations were made today to understand exactly how this all comes together. 4 separate tests were conducted each one with battery switch ON and OFF and also WITH and WITHOUT a load applied. 16 tests in all!!

First test "A" - no external power connected - Internal battery only.
WITH BATTERY SWITCH ON: NO Load: Controller working and all displays as normal: battery voltage, 0 amps in, 0 amps out, PV voltage and PV current 0, no load and Setec connected.
With Load ON (lights etc): Controller showing as above but with load in AMPs displayed. Setec on and operational.

WITH BATTERY SWITCH OFF: NO Load: All accessories off including radio memory function, Setec off. Note controller still operating as per NO Load test above with normal displays.
WITH BATTERY SWITCH OFF: Load ON: All accessories off incl radio memory function, Setec off. Controller still operating as per No load test above.

2ND TEST "B" - 240 volt power connected to van (and SETEC)
WITH BATTERY SWITCH ON: NO Load: Setec charging to max voltage of 14.0 volts. Controller functioning as per same test in "A". Only difference was it was showing higher battery voltage caused by Setec charging. Not showing current into battery.
With Load ON: All accessories working. Controller detected battery voltage drop because of LOAD applied. Otherwise Controller as above. Load not displayed.

WITH BATTERY SWITCH OFF: No LOAD: Setec off, but no change to Controller displays . Note in this test, the SETEC is STILL charging but only at 0.8A. Noted that battery voltage rose slightly to 14.1 volts in this mode. Dropped back to float voltage of 13.7 volts as per Setec specs when battery switch "ON' again.

3RD Test "C" - External charging by Multi stage "Smart Charger" from Anderson plug at side of van and wires connected directly across battery terminals. No other power to van .

WITH BATTERY SWITCH ON: No LOAD: Setec on, and Controller in operation showing battery voltage to 14.7 volts (correct for AGM) and as per specs of charger. No load or amps in shown on controller.
With Load ON: Setec on, all accessories On and working, controller showing Load IN AMPS and amps in, and battery voltage, plus zero for PV voltage and amps.

WITH BATTERY SWITCH OFF: No Load: Setec off, all accessories off. Controller showing no load or amps in, but charging voltage still at 14.7 volts before dropping back to 13.8 volts (float voltage) as per specs for charger.
With Load ON: Setec off, all accessories off, controller showing No Load or amps in/out, but voltage and other displays as per above.

4Th Test "D" - solar panel connected (only 1 X 180w) - no other power connected to van.
WITH BATTERY SWITCH ON: No load: Setec on, controller showing full details of 8.4 amps in, no load, PV voltage at 18.6 volts and battery charge voltage of 14.6 volts (user adjustable setting correct as set) and continuous logging of electrical system operating.
With Load ON: Setec on, all accessories working, controller showing load of 3.6amps, PV voltage of 16.1 volts, 5.8amps charge to battery and battery voltage of 14.1 volts. All electrical logging in operation.

WITH BATTERY SWITCH OFF: No load: Setec off, all accessories off, controller showing no load, but PV voltage up to 18.6 volts, charge rate of 5.8 amps and battery charge voltage at max setting of 14.6 volts (correct as set by user and adjustable) before dropping to 13.8 volts (float setting - also adjustable and correct for setting made).
With Load On: Setec off, all accessories off, controller showing no load, but still showing PV voltage at 18.6 volts,5.8 amps into battery at battery charge voltage of 14.6 volts and then 13.8 volts (float) as per user adjustable settings made by me.

I think I have covered most of the combinations possible, but if I have missed one or you want me to double check any info, I am happy to do test again for any member to clarify this very successful setup for me.
And here is the simplest way I could explain the connections I have made. Could not take photo as too many wires in the way. However, the diagram is exactly as the Setec distribution area looks and the terminals are as marked on all the connections. Hope this helps. NO FLAMES, NO SMOKE AND NO MIRRORS EITHER.

Hi @Boots in Action. I came across this thread as I have a just bought a second hand outback expanda 14ft and was confused as to why the Topray solar controller was not showing the amps being used as this is the setup I am accustomed to in previous camper trailer setup with Steca solar controller. The Topray solar controller is rubbish and I will replace that at a later date but after reading the thread I have rewired diverting the the cable from the setec to the battery to the load of the solar contoller- so that the load from the solar controller goes to the Setec (Battery-ve and +ve) I have tested it on the driveway and the load is now displaying and everything seems OK, however, I awoke in the night last night with the thought that if the Setec is connected to the solar controller LOAD then how does it charge the battery now with the AC and DC from the car (the charge would be going into the load terminals of the solar controller and not to the battery! I am not aware that it is possible to charge a battery through the load terminal of a solar controller? How is it then you are are successfully charging your battery (AC and DC) through the load terminal of your solar controller? Please let me know if I am missing something here as it seems to be working for you but how? As the only other cable from the battery is connected to the solar controller. Without a direct connection to the battery from the Setec how is any charging possible other than through solar? PS great info regarding the LVD I had know idea it was so low with these units - I think the Steca was 11.3V
Cheers

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Boots in Action. I came across this thread as I have a just bought a second hand outback expanda 14ft and was confused as to why the Topray solar controller was not showing the amps being used as this is the setup I am accustomed to in previous camper trailer setup with Steca solar controller. The Topray solar controller is rubbish and I will replace that at a later date but after reading the thread I have rewired diverting the the cable from the setec to the battery to the load of the solar contoller- so that the load from the solar controller goes to the Setec (Battery-ve and +ve) I have tested it on the driveway and the load is now displaying and everything seems OK, however, I awoke in the night last night with the thought that if the Setec is connected to the solar controller LOAD then how does it charge the battery now with the AC and DC from the car (the charge would be going into the load terminals of the solar controller and not to the battery! I am not aware that it is possible to charge a battery through the load terminal of a solar controller? How is it then you are are successfully charging your battery (AC and DC) through the load terminal of your solar controller? Please let me know if I am missing something here as it seems to be working for you but how? As the only other cable from the battery is connected to the solar controller. Without a direct connection to the battery from the Setec how is any charging possible other than through solar? PS great info regarding the LVD I had know idea it was so low with these units - I think the Steca was 11.3V
Cheers

Hello there @Absolutelylost, you are not the only one on this forum to have difficulty in understanding my set up and how it works. It was easier to connect up than it was to make a wiring diagram that those with some technical knowledge could follow. But it should be that way on all units.
Basically, it all came about as a result of my Daughter's battery failing without warning and yet voltage was still ABOVE the low voltage cutout on the Setec controller which is way too low at 10 volts IMHO. My Setec is an ST 20 series III model. My Daughter's Topray controller also did not have any connections to the LOAD terminals on the solar controller. The load was distributed by the Setec control apparatus at the fuse distribution point and therefore relied in the LVD in the Setec to protect the battery from total failure. By connecting the LOAD terminals from the Setec distribution point through the solar controller, LVD operates at the Topray setting BEFORE the Setec LVD can operate. It also allows you to see what current is being used by the various loads that are connected at the time. IT DOES NOT SHOW NOR CONTROL LOADS THAT ARE CONNECTED DIRECTLY ACROSS THE BATTERY TERMINALS!!! These are normally only heavy current devices which are not wired through the Setec distribution controller. I hope you can understand this okay.
Now to answer your questions on charging: The Setec controller is a 240 volt AC charger which provides up to 14 volts DC power (and also from the tug) to the electrical system and charges the battery as needed. This operates INDEPENDENTLY of the solar controller. The solar controller only controls all the solar power input. To the loads and if excess power is available, to the battery for charging. NO CHARGING CURRENT/VOLTAGE FOR THE BATTERY EVER GOES THROUGH THE LOAD TERMINALS. THESE TERMINALS ONLY SUPPLY CURRENT TO THE ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES THAT ARE IN USE AT THE TIME. Your set up now allows you to have a much better arrangement than before and will be even better with a MPPT regulator with user settings for both LVD and LVR. See my other posts on this subject.
By the way, my daughter's van has the same connections as you now have, but with a much better solar controller with variable LVD and LVR settings which I have set at 11.8v and 12.4v respectively.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hello there @Absolutelylost, you are not the only one on this forum to have difficulty in understanding my set up and how it works. It was easier to connect up than it was to make a wiring diagram that those with some technical knowledge could follow. But it should be that way on all units.
Basically, it all came about as a result of my Daughter's battery failing without warning and yet voltage was still ABOVE the low voltage cutout on the Setec controller which is way too low at 10 volts IMHO. My Setec is an ST 20 series III model. My Daughter's Topray controller also did not have any connections to the LOAD terminals on the solar controller. The load was distributed by the Setec control apparatus at the fuse distribution point and therefore relied in the LVD in the Setec to protect the battery from total failure. By connecting the LOAD terminals from the Setec distribution point through the solar controller, LVD operates at the Topray setting BEFORE the Setec LVD can operate. It also allows you to see what current is being used by the various loads that are connected at the time. IT DOES NOT SHOW NOR CONTROL LOADS THAT ARE CONNECTED DIRECTLY ACROSS THE BATTERY TERMINALS!!! These are normally only heavy current devices which are not wired through the Setec distribution controller. I hope you can understand this okay.
Now to answer your questions on charging: The Setec controller is a 240 volt AC charger which provides up to 14 volts DC power (and also from the tug) to the electrical system and charges the battery as needed. This operates INDEPENDENTLY of the solar controller. The solar controller only controls all the solar power input. To the loads and if excess power is available, to the battery for charging. NO CHARGING CURRENT/VOLTAGE FOR THE BATTERY EVER GOES THROUGH THE LOAD TERMINALS. THESE TERMINALS ONLY SUPPLY CURRENT TO THE ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES THAT ARE IN USE AT THE TIME. Your set up now allows you to have a much better arrangement than before and will be even better with a MPPT regulator with user settings for both LVD and LVR. See my other posts on this subject.
By the way, my daughter's van has the same connections as you now have, but with a much better solar controller with variable LVD and LVR settings which I have set at 11.8v and 12.4v respectively.

Hello there again @Absolutelylost , after a bit of further thinking about your concern on charging arrangements with your new connections, I thought I would provide you with a bit more info to clarify a few things.

Firstly, as you are aware, on all solar controllers, there are three terminals (two connectors on each ) for Solar, Battery and Load.

All power generated by your solar panel/s is directed to the SOLAR IN terminals where current and voltage is controlled. Current is directed to the battery (for charging it) and/or to the output LOAD terminals to power the various accessories. This happens automatically and is changing all the time.

The Terminals marked "BATTERY" provide the connection for solar charging of the battery, as well as providing current to power the loads connected, if there is insufficient power (or no solar charge available or at night or very dull conditions). This is a two way flow line for charging battery and/or for providing power to the load/s. These wires are connected (or should be!!!) ACROSS the battery terminals and NOT through the Setec Control unit.

The LOAD terminals are for providing the connection from the solar charge input and/or for additional power FROM the battery when needed. There is NO charging applied to the solar controller from any outside source (except solar generation if available.)

When an outside source of charging current is connected (say 240 volt power,) this charging current is directed through the Setec control unit which has its own voltage and current controls, and does this even if solar power is available and also being fed into the battery at the same time. This will cause some conflict in voltage control as the solar controller usually has a higher voltage setting than the Setec - typically 14.4 volts or higher for solar controller, as against approx only 14.0 volts for the Setec (check your own specs on these). Although this is not ideal and causes no real harm, it cannot be avoided unless panels are not deployed or disconnected, so do not be concerned about this. Even if another source of power was being applied (except from tug which also goes through the SETEC CONTROLS) , it would normally be connected directly across the battery terminals (has to have its own current and voltage control though.)

So whether you operate your load/s through the Setec or the solar LOAD terminals, all electrical current comes from the various inputs and all share the common battery storage system/s.
I still believe connecting the van loads through the Solar controller is a superior way to go (if unit is capable of handling anticipated load/s) as you get the benefit of TWO LVD and LVR controls - in the solar panel firstly and earlier! and then the fall back position of the Setec at 10.0 volts when the battery is really stuffed!! Note, although I say this, I have found in practice that when the Solar controller disconnects the load, (cuts the power???), it also results in the Setec also being disconnected as there appears to be a relay in that unit that operates when power (or load???) is disconnected by another source. This should NOT be a problem at all, as you get a much EARLIER warning of dropping voltage and can do something about it straightaway.
I hope this fully clarifies your concerns and results in more confidence in what you are achieving. Cheers.

 

[Drover]

I might even sling mine off the ProStar's load terminals just to see how things go, the ProStar35 does have a brilliant interface and is probably one of the best PWM's around and being hooked up to a system set up using the KISS principle it is far superior to most vans tangled mess of cables all hidden away, just means uncoupling from Bus Bar and plugging into load terminal, advantages I can see is it will show how much is being drawn down but it would also mean easier disconnect of whole system with a push of the button on regulator, does have some good points................

 

[Boots in Action]

Whilst this is slightly off topic, I have used the knowledge gained here to gude my descision making process for getting a solar system at home.

Whilst the scale is very different (38 x 330w panels with a 13kW lithium battery) I am going with a system that uses micro inverters at each panel to protect against partial shading instead of having all the panels in Series with a single inverter.

Hi @Bellbirdweb , sounds great and you will be able to make the most of it with your knowledge too. But tell me, how did you get the go ahead from the local electricity authorities for such a large power generation?? Was it because you were going to tell them they were not needed any more?? Brave decision indeed, like camping off grid on a permanent basis. Up here in south east Queensland, the greatest power generation by solar with feed into the grid has been limited to 5 KW for domestic operation. I do not know of anybody up here who has decided to do what you have and what they would have to go through either. Good luck with your super large "solar camping system". Cheers

 

[Boots in Action]

I might even sling mine off the ProStar's load terminals just to see how things go, the ProStar35 does have a brilliant interface and is probably one of the best PWM's around and being hooked up to a system set up using the KISS principle it is far superior to most vans tangled mess of cables all hidden away, just means uncoupling from Bus Bar and plugging into load terminal, advantages I can see is it will show how much is being drawn down but it would also mean easier disconnect of whole system with a push of the button on regulator, does have some good points................

Well, well, well @Drover, at last I have got you moving. Definitely lots of advantages and worth the change. Did a search on your Prostar 35 specs and noted that although fixed settings, they are far better than a Setec or similar. Noted that LVD is 11.4 volts and auto LVR is 12.5 volts, max charge voltage constant is 14.1 volts which will suit your Gel battery/ies and equalization charge of 14.35 volts. AND all temperature compensated too. It must have been a "top of the range" controller when you first bought it. Has lots of user adjustable settings too. But the price that Morningstar or Victron now want for their products is "over the top". They may be good but not that good at the prices they want on Ebay. The Ctrade Dreamtime 30A MPPT controller I have is less than half the cost of a PWM Victron equivalent model, whilst a Victron MPPT controller is 3 times the cost of my very efficient Dreamtime MPPT controller which has all the "bells and whistles" , and with a 2 year warranty too. No wonder people are afraid to buy the cheaper ones even though some are TRUE MPPT controllers. Why anyone would fork out over $450.00 for a Victron when the genuine MPPT controller I have is a third of the price!! Later technology and more sales?? But @Drover , as you said earlier, there are a lot of shonky ones out there. However, if members are confident in what I have been saying, they can save a lot of money!! Should be a salesman!!!
Incidentally, I have received my LOW Voltage Disconnect Module with all the variable settings and am testing it at the moment. You will be advised of the results as soon as I have put it through its paces. Looks like you will not need one now if connecting load through your Prostar controller. Please let me know how you go, not only for my sake, but for other interested members on this forum. Regards

 

[Drover]

Well, well, well @Drover, at last I have got you moving. Definitely lots of advantages and worth the change. Did a search on your Prostar 35 specs and noted that although fixed settings, they are far better than a Setec or similar. Noted that LVD is 11.4 volts and auto LVR is 12.5 volts, max charge voltage constant is 14.1 volts which will suit your Gel battery/ies and equalization charge of 14.35 volts. AND all temperature compensated too. It must have been a "top of the range" controller when you first bought it. Has lots of user adjustable settings too. But the price that Morningstar or Victron now want for their products is "over the top". They may be good but not that good at the prices they want on Ebay. The Ctrade Dreamtime 30A MPPT controller I have is less than half the cost of a PWM Victron equivalent model, whilst a Victron MPPT controller is 3 times the cost of my very efficient Dreamtime MPPT controller which has all the "bells and whistles" , and with a 2 year warranty too. No wonder people are afraid to buy the cheaper ones even though some are TRUE MPPT controllers. Why anyone would fork out over $450.00 for a Victron when the genuine MPPT controller I have is a third of the price!! Later technology and more sales?? But @Drover , as you said earlier, there are a lot of shonky ones out there. However, if members are confident in what I have been saying, they can save a lot of money!! Should be a salesman!!!
Incidentally, I have received my LOW Voltage Disconnect Module with all the variable settings and am testing it at the moment. You will be advised of the results as soon as I have put it through its paces. Looks like you will not need one now if connecting load through your Prostar controller. Please let me know how you go, not only for my sake, but for other interested members on this forum. Regards

Well it's on the "To Do List" I will have to think about if it's worth the effort to remove the lugs and extend the cable a few inches to connect, I won't be checking on draw down very often, I have ample storage for my set up and I have to look at if changing the draw position will have other issues, none that I can see at present but sometimes.
My system is set up so that supply to battery from 240, Solar or other 12v source, none rely on the other, each is self contained which for free camping is a must....................... I do like the ease of controls with display on my unit something many others dont have but no need to replace the ProStar and if my batteries get down that low the system shuts down then I mustn't be paying attention, the volt meter inside the van gives me a good indication of things not right way before anything critical, comes from spending months in the rig, I have learnt what it should be showing in certain weather so I can plug in the big meter to look at things if amiss, usually pollen or dust over panels...

Friends have Seteks and BJM35 systems and if the main unit faults the whole shebang shuts down and you have to do a temp by pass to get things running, mine even if a battery dies I can still have power, wiring burns out or I loose the 4 sources then its back to candles tough.......

 

[Absolutelylost]

Hello there @Absolutelylost, you are not the only one on this forum to have difficulty in understanding my set up and how it works. It was easier to connect up than it was to make a wiring diagram that those with some technical knowledge could follow. But it should be that way on all units.
Basically, it all came about as a result of my Daughter's battery failing without warning and yet voltage was still ABOVE the low voltage cutout on the Setec controller which is way too low at 10 volts IMHO. My Setec is an ST 20 series III model. My Daughter's Topray controller also did not have any connections to the LOAD terminals on the solar controller. The load was distributed by the Setec control apparatus at the fuse distribution point and therefore relied in the LVD in the Setec to protect the battery from total failure. By connecting the LOAD terminals from the Setec distribution point through the solar controller, LVD operates at the Topray setting BEFORE the Setec LVD can operate. It also allows you to see what current is being used by the various loads that are connected at the time. IT DOES NOT SHOW NOR CONTROL LOADS THAT ARE CONNECTED DIRECTLY ACROSS THE BATTERY TERMINALS!!! These are normally only heavy current devices which are not wired through the Setec distribution controller. I hope you can understand this okay.
Now to answer your questions on charging: The Setec controller is a 240 volt AC charger which provides up to 14 volts DC power (and also from the tug) to the electrical system and charges the battery as needed. This operates INDEPENDENTLY of the solar controller. The solar controller only controls all the solar power input. To the loads and if excess power is available, to the battery for charging. NO CHARGING CURRENT/VOLTAGE FOR THE BATTERY EVER GOES THROUGH THE LOAD TERMINALS. THESE TERMINALS ONLY SUPPLY CURRENT TO THE ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES THAT ARE IN USE AT THE TIME. Your set up now allows you to have a much better arrangement than before and will be even better with a MPPT regulator with user settings for both LVD and LVR. See my other posts on this subject.
By the way, my daughter's van has the same connections as you now have, but with a much better solar controller with variable LVD and LVR settings which I have set at 11.8v and 12.4v respectively.

Hey Boots in Action thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I understand all the above which is why I thought it was such a brilliant idea in the first place. Maybe I didnt phrase my question correctly so I'll try this: The setec is connnected to the battery through only one source, this provides the Setec with volts for load and also enables the setec to charge the battery as necessary whilst connected to the tug or 240V. If this is correct then by disconnecting the +ve and -ve from the battery terminals and connecting them to the +ve and _ve terminals for LOAD in the solar controller you allow the solar controller to control the load conditions for the Setec BUT how does the Setec now charge the battery through tug and 240v as the Setec is nolonger directly connected to the battery since its only connection is through the solar controller. Which brings us to the question: how are you able to charge the battery using the Setec through the LOAD terminals of the solar controller? If I am being daft don't be kind...as I have just gone and rewired it back to the way it was as I just couldn't work out how this is possible. Is there some other way you have wired this so that the Setec has maintained direct access to the battery for charging? I would much prefer running load through the solar controller as this is what I am accustomed to. Thanks for your time.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hey Boots in Action thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I understand all the above which is why I thought it was such a brilliant idea in the first place. Maybe I didnt phrase my question correctly so I'll try this: The setec is connnected to the battery through only one source, this provides the Setec with volts for load and also enables the setec to charge the battery as necessary whilst connected to the tug or 240V. If this is correct then by disconnecting the +ve and -ve from the battery terminals and connecting them to the +ve and _ve terminals for LOAD in the solar controller you allow the solar controller to control the load conditions for the Setec BUT how does the Setec now charge the battery through tug and 240v as the Setec is nolonger directly connected to the battery since its only connection is through the solar controller. Which brings us to the question: how are you able to charge the battery using the Setec through the LOAD terminals of the solar controller? If I am being daft don't be kind...as I have just gone and rewired it back to the way it was as I just couldn't work out how this is possible. Is there some other way you have wired this so that the Setec has maintained direct access to the battery for charging? I would much prefer running load through the solar controller as this is what I am accustomed to. Thanks for your time.

Hi @Absolutelylost , maybe it was me who misunderstood exactly what you were wishing to find out. Sorry I did not pick up on your real reason for asking.
The wires connecting the battery to the Setec unit MUST REMAIN IN PLACE. The load for the solar controller is picked up from the pos and neg terminals at the Setec distribution point where all the fuses are. In my 2013 Penguin, I have a Setec ST20 Series III unit which has 8 separate fuses at various ratings from 3 to 10 amps, but the total load output is limited to 20 A and fused accordingly. My Daughter's 2010 Journey has a Setec ST20 Series II which has only 5 separate fuses but still limited to 20 A. In both cases, you will find that there are pos and neg OUTPUT terminals at the distribution point (they are usually clearly marked for you) and the connection wires for the TOTAL load is made here. Please refer to my post # 1052 of 12th June, 2018 for a rough electrical diagram of necessary connection to Solar controller LOAD terminals. You can also refer to the link kindly provided by @G Daddy (post 1052 16th October,2018) for more details of circuit. This connection still allows individual fusing for each circuit (radio, lights, 12 volt outlets, external 12 volt lights and any other accessories you may add - I have an electric water pump connected there!) but the whole LOAD circuit is protected by a 20 A fuse. These are still operational in my setup.
Just a special note and warning: high current devices (inverters, 12 volt electric kettles or the like SHOULD NOT be connected through the solar controller. They should be wired separately across the battery terminals, each with their own fuse for protection. Even doing this will not prevent the LVD in the solar controller from activating before the Setec LVD if battery is low, because the solar controller is still sensing battery voltage through its own circuit which is also connected ACROSS the same battery terminals. In my unit, the in line battery isolation switch will turn off the Setec, but as the solar controller is also connected to the battery by its own circuit, the solar controller will continue to display charge and voltage but not operate the loads. See full details of my extensive testing. A good safety measure! If you have an earlier model Setec ST20 Series II, you may not have a separate battery isolation switch. In this case you should include an inline switch.
Hope this helps, so get back and hook it up correctly. Good luck!!

 

[Drover]

I really can't see a need for going to all that hassle, why not just fit one of these jiggers in line at the battery, if your into data displays this should do them all and more...

 

[mikerezny]

I really can't see a need for going to all that hassle, why not just fit one of these jiggers in line at the battery, if your into data displays this should do them all and more...

Hi @Drover ,
these units only measure in one direction, source to load.

cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

I really can't see a need for going to all that hassle, why not just fit one of these jiggers in line at the battery, if your into data displays this should do them all and more...

Yes @Drover , a good unit! BUT only shows current IN or OUT depending on polarity of connection. And what @Absolutelylost was looking for was a better LVD and LVR setting. This unit does not have this feature. Also, why buy another item (even if cheap!) and find a place to view it, connect it up with extra wiring, when you already have a unit that is already in place and can be used for its proper purpose?? All it involves is connecting a couple of wires from the correct distribution point to the LOAD terminals of the controller.!! Of course, the solar control unit has to be in the van for this system.

It seems that for a long time people have been ignoring the most efficient way of connecting wires to carry loads if they have a solar controller and getting the other advantages it provides too. There are lots of other brand sites too that provide similar advice and diagrams as technology has improved. The main three paragraphs under Solar Controller set this out very clearly. So these procedures are not just my ideas for improvements, but are actually recommendations from manufacturers. Pity that some caravan manufacturers are not keeping up with the latest technology. Tread your own path.

 

[Drover]

I was under the impression that how much was being drawn was what was wanted, oh well whatever .......suppose it depends how easy the cabling is to get at......just thought putting it between battery and Setek would show draw no matter if solar was working or not.

I'll just go back to my cave and chip some more flints......

 

[mikerezny]

I was under the impression that how much was being drawn was what was wanted, oh well whatever .......suppose it depends how easy the cabling is to get at......just thought putting it between battery and Setek would show draw no matter if solar was working or not.

I'll just go back to my cave and chip some more flints......

Hi @Drover,
hmm..I wonder if I could use these flints to remove my dependence on using a lighter to start the chippy!

That idea would sort of work. You measure power IN from the panels to the battery with your solar regulator, and measure power OUT with this gadget between the Setec and the battery. The bit that wouldn't work is that the gadget would not measure power from the Setec either via its charger when on 240V or the AUX input when the van is connected to the tug. I did consider getting two of them and connect them back to back, to see if one would measure power in and the other would measure power out. Then my KISS principle kicked in, closely followed by my tight ass nature, and I came to the conclusion that why would I add all this complexity when I already know pretty well how much power the LED lighting, fridge fan, and charging various rechargeable devices uses per day: about 4Ah. So as long as I can recover this each day I can get back to playing with the Chippy. Made about 40 dampers, 10 loaves of bread, a few chappatis, and 4 pit breads now. Only failure was when we tried to make damper with plain flour by mistake.

One major change in our 12V setup is that we flattened the car battery staying in one site for over a week without starting the car. Opening and shutting the doors and boot all day was the problem. Found out how to turn all the interior lights off, but it still draws 0.7A for about 15 minutes every time a door or the boot is opened. Drops down progressively but I didn't have the patience to do a thorough test. The solution is that I now alternate the solar panel between the van battery and the car battery.
cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

I was under the impression that how much was being drawn was what was wanted, oh well whatever .......suppose it depends how easy the cabling is to get at......just thought putting it between battery and Setek would show draw no matter if solar was working or not.

I'll just go back to my cave and chip some more flints......

Now now @Drover , you only get cranky if you go into your cave and hibernate for too long. There is work to be done outside and you need to get into it! . @Absolutelylost will be able to get a reading on the controller of what current goes into the controller AS WELL AS WHAT GOES OUT when he connects the load through the solar controller as detailed above. This is in addition to all the other advantages. Don't be too miffed. I missed his main issue on his first posting and had to start again. All that matters is that he is given the correct information and then the option is his - just as it is for you.!!

 

[Drover]

Nah, flint is a pain, fire lighter with gas match only way...... Still haven't made a chippy but the idea is growing after reading your cook list......... Luckily the Ute has an aux battery and if the roof panels need a hand the vans portable is just plug an play in the socket, usually in the arvo once the van is topped up......volt meter in van and ute give me enough info for most times.

 

[Bellbirdweb]

Interesting experiment done here on PWM and MPPT, and shading

https://www.facebook.com/552483368248245/posts/1150176041812305

 

[Boots in Action]

Interesting experiment done here on PWM and MPPT, and shading

https://www.facebook.com/552483368248245/posts/1150176041812305

Hi there @Bellbirdweb and best wishes for 2019. I played your video and noted what they had to say about MPPT and PWM type controllers. Rather intriguing for me on a couple of things. When conditions are perfect and unchanging as in the video, what they say may be true. However, as he said at the end, these conditions are rare and seldom occur frequently and their panels were FLAT on the ground in the middle of the day. What happens when the sun changes position after 2 hours and the panels are still flat on the ground in the same position? When there are varying conditions like heavy and/or frequent clouding and varying light conditions, not to mention changing angles to the sun, I believe that MPPT controllers would harvest more especially if connected in series. They did mention that MPPT was better in low light (early morning and late afternoon) but not much better than PWM on the rest of the day. Enough to make me do further testing when I go off grid for a week on 9th January. I will also do my own testing in both parallel and series and also with partial shading and see what results I come up with. Also, I have changed all the diodes in my solar panels to the lower forward voltage loss Schottky type. If MPPT is not much better than PWM, why is it that all solar controllers for roof panels are MPPT and not PWM types. Higher levels of voltage control needed??
By the way how are you going with your own modified system and lithium storage arrangements?
I had another look at the following link regarding bypass diodes. Did the people in the video NOT have bypass diodes in circuit? Is that the reason that there was almost a complete loss of charging when part of one panel was shaded?? I have never had that occur with my own solar generation. Perhaps you may be able to make it clearer to me?

https://www.solar-facts.com/panels/panel-diodes.php Read what they say about panels in series with one shaded and their use for MPPT controllers.

Regards

 

[Bellbirdweb]

Hi there @Bellbirdweb and best wishes for 2019. I played your video and noted what they had to say about MPPT and PWM type controllers. Rather intriguing for me on a couple of things. When conditions are perfect and unchanging as in the video, what they say may be true. However, as he said at the end, these conditions are rare and seldom occur frequently and their panels were FLAT on the ground in the middle of the day. What happens when the sun changes position after 2 hours and the panels are still flat on the ground in the same position? When there are varying conditions like heavy and/or frequent clouding and varying light conditions, not to mention changing angles to the sun, I believe that MPPT controllers would harvest more especially if connected in series. They did mention that MPPT was better in low light (early morning and late afternoon) but not much better than PWM on the rest of the day. Enough to make me do further testing when I go off grid for a week on 9th January. I will also do my own testing in both parallel and series and also with partial shading and see what results I come up with. Also, I have changed all the diodes in my solar panels to the lower forward voltage loss Schottky type. If MPPT is not much better than PWM, why is it that all solar controllers for roof panels are MPPT and not PWM types. Higher levels of voltage control needed??
By the way how are you going with your own modified system and lithium storage arrangements?
I had another look at the following link regarding bypass diodes. Did the people in the video NOT have bypass diodes in circuit? Is that the reason that there was almost a complete loss of charging when part of one panel was shaded?? I have never had that occur with my own solar generation. Perhaps you may be able to make it clearer to me?

https://www.solar-facts.com/panels/panel-diodes.php Read what they say about panels in series with one shaded and their use for MPPT controllers.

Regards

Hi there @Boots in Action, Happy New Year !!

I was also interested in the conclusions drawn, and disagree with them in relation to the PWM vs MPPT. Much of this was driven by the inflated cost of the controller they were using. My MPPT regularly netts a greater output that the old PWM and only cost a couple of hundred dollars.

Unfortunately our solar at home hasn’t been installed yet as there was some sort of delay with the supply of the 38 panels, so hopefully next month it will all get installed.

 

[Crusty181]

Is that the reason that there was almost a complete loss of charging when part of one panel was shaded??

When i individually tested my cheapo dodgy 250w Ebay panel through the Victron MPPT controller i found shading one cell almost completely knocked out the entire panel