Navara D40 DIY servicing?

[pauljygrant]

Hi all,
Is anyone doing their own servicing, (oils and fluids), to a Navara D40?
My ute is a 2013 YD25DDTi auto 4x4.
I've been changing the engine oil and filter for the past 50k kms at 10k km intervals and the next big service is now due (120,000km) so I'm interested in changing the transfer box, and front and rear diff oils. I probably will have to get a garage to do the auto oil since this model doesn't have a dipstick unlike my previous Pathfinder -it's supposed to be sealed for life but not sure who's live!
Anyway, has anyone done the transfer or diff oil changes and can share their experiences? Tips, tricks, problems?
Also, what oils did you use? The manual stipulates only Nissan Matic D ATF for the transfer box, but the diff's are less specific. The rear diff had 75W-140 stamped next to the filler but couldn't see anything on tn front diff. Would prefer to use same oil in both event if more expensive to reduce number of half full oil bottles in the shed but not sure if that's feasible.
All help or comments appreciated.
Cheers, paul

 

[Ligedy]

Yeah @pauljygrant - I did all my own servicing, including the auto, on my Series 4 2010 D40 since new to 123k its now got on the clock. Transfer case and diffs are easy to service, nothing special about doing em but you will need to get all the different types of oils - make sure you use the oil grades specified or else it will cost you more down the track.

Your service book shows what needed - diffs are specific - front 80W-90, rear 75W-140 (non-LSD diffs), transfer case Nissan Matic D ATF.

I ran with Pentrite oils although I’m a Castrol fan as I could typically get them cheaper at trade prices than Castrol or Nissan Genuine fluids - and I kinda recall they sell a greater range of bottle sizes (i.e. 2.5L?) to make buying a bite more economical. I never had any dramas with Penrite as long as you get their OEM equivalent spec and grade oil. Get online and you’ll find Castrol and Penrite have oil selector which will tell you what the D40 requires / what their equivalent oil is then you can go shopping.

IMO - oil is cheap compared to drive train components, don’t skimp on good quality oils. AT’s might be sealed for life, but not a life of towing and 4wding according to manufacturers these days - check the footnotes in your service book. If you are doing higher kms towing or 4wding I’d suggest more regular services on the drivetrain (if you plan on keeping the vehicle for longer, that is).

I’m also a fan of keeping to / replacing with the same brand/spec oil when servicing, in both the engine and drivetrain, to avoid mixing them every time you do an oil change (i.e. i don’t just buy the cheapest oil at the time...). I have just sold my D40 to a good mate so I’ll be recommending he does the same as this rig has been a great car and never let me down.

The ATF is DIY’able, but I can agree with you about getting an auto mob to do it as it will cost $hitloads if you get the oil level wrong... and it is a PITA getting the level right without a dipstick or the right tools.

Cheers, Ligedy

 

[Drover]

If you look online many of the autos that have no dip stick actually have a plug into which a dip stick tube can be fitted to make checking levels easier...... Sealed for life seems to mean they break at around 120,000kms.

 

[pauljygrant]

Thanks guys for your comments - have made some progress firstly by chatting to the parts dept from the dealer.
The service person didn't know what Matic D was, but thankfully the older guy behind overheard and produced a bottle ($64 for 5L). That will be the transfer box sorted.
The dealer didn't stock oil for the diffs since they only buy and use in bulk but did give some general advice that was confirmed by both the staff at SCA and Repco.
SCA was $10 per L cheaper than Repco for both diff oils based on using fully synthetic Castrol, although the guy at SCA was promoting Penrite. Being a British expat, I've only used Castrol in the past (mainly on my Discovery Series 1), but since they both meet the same standards, I guess either are ok.
That said, for the sake of about an extra $30 per year, I will most likely stay with the Castrol......
Repco are having a Castrol promotion at the weekend but he couldn't or wouldn't say what the discount will be - will hold off til then, then make my final decision.
As for the auto, will get the dealer to do it but might ask if I can be present to examine the condition of the draining ATF - not sure if they will go for this, but might let me see how it's done for future reference.

 

[Drover]

If you dig around on the net you can usually find what these manufacturers actually use as their own oil, many are overpriced and are actually a well known brand with a new wrapper. Using a Penrite or Castrol in the gear box or diffs will not cause any problems after 3 Jeeps and the only Jeep/Mopar fluid I actually bought was the PS fluid, they had their Transfer Case fluid priced at $54/lt, a very big search and cross checks found that it was Mobil 424 fluid, available at $6/lt from Mobil, ran it for a few 100,000km no dramas......
I do my own tranny on the Colorado instead of 150,000km change it gets about 35 to 40,000km changes, best if you have a hoist or pit as I now use a set of small ramps and its a pain, no ramps would be torture and very messy to try.... I stock up on oils when Repco or SCA have their 25% off and buy filters from Western Filters in bulk, huge savings.
Buy a fluid pump for the diffs and tranny fill, they are way better than a big syringe, actually if it doesn't have a dip stick and you dont have a hoist it may be better to use a tranny shop for the auto as filling will be a drama I believe.. I'd use a Transmission shop instead of a dealer as you will get a better job done.