16' Series Leaking hard lids

Mar 22, 2016
31
6
8
41
Melbourne, Australia
#1
On our 3rd trip out with our expanda (2010 hard lid), we had our first rain.

Yep, water pooling on-top of front abd rear bed canvas/vinyl but no water came through or affected the bedding which was a relief.

Having a better look at home it's easy to see why. Silicone failed over time or it might have been like this from day 1.

I've got two options.

1. Leave everything in place, give it a good clean, mask up the area and apply some Sikaflex 291 over the top?

2. Remove the hard lid, remove old sealant and re-apply some Sikaflex 291. This sounds like the better option but I'm reluctant to remove the hard lid as I have no experience with fibre glass, and don't know if the section where the hinge is screwed into is reinforced? I'll hate to thread out the existing holes, etc..

What are your thoughts? I'm pretty sure others on here have done option one, if so is the solution long lasting?

Lastly, how do you clean off all the old silicone if option 2 is required.

Cheers.
 

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Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
7,314
13,468
113
Cooloola Coast, QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#5
Oh yeah, sure is a dodgy job, can see it now I'm on laptop and can blow the photo up, gentle removal of the screws, evenly leaving the end and middle ones to last with someone helping or supporting the lid while doing it is the best way to remove, replace screws by hand so not to overtighten with a bit of silastic on thread helps but raise and support lid while lining up the hinge and replacing the screws trying not to load up the hinge should make for a trouble free removala nd replacement, a jig to support it all is better than a person, people tend to move.........A bathroom sealant would be better than an adhesive sikaflex, should always use a neutral cure then no corrosive action should take place....
 
Mar 22, 2016
31
6
8
41
Melbourne, Australia
#8
Drover, might try a bead on-top if existing sealant before I move to removing the lid and hinges. Will the roof and gutter silicone stick to the Jayco sealant (not sure what they used from factory back in 2010) or do I need to use other? I've got a stack of Sikaflex-FC but unfortunately in Grey.

Cheers
 

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
7,314
13,468
113
Cooloola Coast, QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#9
You could try slicing the excess old sealant with a sharp bit of perspex, then pushing a square ended bit of perspex to remove the old sealant, the perspex while cutting the sealant shouldn't score the surface and using a square ended piece will roll off the old stuff, well it should anyway with the least amount of damage but does depend on how you do it of course but way better than any metal implement...........................as to if new stuff will adhere well, after scrapping what old stuff off a good rub down with turps to clean dirt and any loose stuff off then wipe it all down with metho, that will clean any oily residue from the turps and will dry it all off then you can apply your bead of new sealant, if your good you can get it down in one hit and no need to touch up, I've seen it done but never achieved it myself, to tidy up I spray it with soapy water then run a bit of plastic over it to shape and tidy it, not always with great success though......
 
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Crusty181

Well-Known Member
Feb 7, 2010
4,684
10,387
113
Mentone, VIC
#10
You can buy silicone remover, but youll still need to scrape it out. WD40 is a very effective and cheap way to weakening the silicone, and DW40 makes it much easier to scrape out with a plastic scraper. If you go the WD40 method make sure you thoroughly clean all the residue WD40 off with petrol or prepsol because any residue will do a fantastic job of doing the same to your new sealer .... which should be a roof and gutter sealer such as Sika Roof and Gutter

Good quality dishwashing detergent is also pretty good at grease and oil residue

Polyureathane such as Sikaflex 291 is great on fibreglass, but isnt so greatb on aluminium and painted surfaces.
 
Mar 22, 2016
31
6
8
41
Melbourne, Australia
#11
I've got some feedback from a couple of Jayco dealer service centres in regards to the sealant:

Dealer 1. I honestly do not know what brand of sealant that Jayco used in 2010. Our work shop uses this: http://www.pagebrosrvparts.com.au/hardware-parts/sealing-compounds/all-purpose-silicone.html

Dealer 2. As regards to the leak, we would recommend, and indeed use a neutral cure silicon in similar colour, preparation is all important so make sure the surface is clean, oil free and all loose silicon removed

Dealer 3.The silicone used in 2010 was called V4. This was manufactured by several suppliers,
You can use a Fuller product called super seal which will work.

In summary, all 3 seem to be using neutral cure silicone's instead of sika polyurethanes.
 
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