How to bypass setek charger
- Thread starter Mike7
- Start date
Hi everyone. I also need some help with a similar thing. I have just upgraded my Jayco Journey to Lithium including a 40 amp AC Lithium charger and a 40 amp DCDC charger. I would like to know how to take the Cetec charger out of the equation as that will no longer be required.
Assuming the Setek is one of the ST versions its very easy just unplug it from 240v at the socket and the 12v supply from tug at the unit, just leave it connected to the battery and it becomes a simple circuit board........ with your 240 chager and DC/DC charger connected direct to battery you shouldn't have any drama, if you have solar with a quality MPPT reg inline the former are usually not needed very much.
Labeled 'aux in' on a setec. Just pull out the spade connector
Also suggest that you check your + and - connections from the chargers to the batteries are cool when at full chat. Even slight issues (solder joints, terminal studs, cable sizes) will show up at those continuous currents
Hi Drover, thanks for the reply. I have disconnected the 3 pin plug for the Cetec from the 240V GPO and connected the original + - wires from the Ctec to the new Lithium bank. All my 12V system seems to be working but the lights inside the van no longer work on shore power. There must be some sort of connection between the Cetec and the LED lights. Any thoughts ?.
The Setek originally would use mains power to operate the charging circuit to the battery and provide 12v to the system when battery isolated or removed, if your lights fail to work on mains then I can assume the battery switch is turned off hence no 12v.... On my old 14.44 the connections on the switch were never fitted properly from day 1, 3 years later I discovered it when no power with switch ON but plenty of sparks when I wriggled the cable at the switch... Check your connections between battery and Setek spade connectors........ A good multi meter is mandatory .... Remember on vans Black isn't always NEG and RED isn't always POS, it can be white and black thats used.
Disconecting the feed from tug should be done on the Setek at the Aux In , as the feed from the 12/7 pin may be shared with the fridge on some Jayco rigs, it can also be shared by the breaksafe as well, wiring isn't done to a set layout I have found....... So important to check all wiring if you are going to do any mods to it.
Disconecting the feed from tug should be done on the Setek at the Aux In , as the feed from the 12/7 pin may be shared with the fridge on some Jayco rigs, it can also be shared by the breaksafe as well, wiring isn't done to a set layout I have found....... So important to check all wiring if you are going to do any mods to it.
Thanks again Drover. I’m starting to think it’s a bit out of my league. I’m ok with straight forward 12volt stuff but when there is a combo of the two I’m a bit lost. I was given an estimate of 6.5 k to put in a complete lithium system so I decided to purchase all the bits and install the 12 volt side of it myself. I think I might bite the bullet and get the rest done by a sparky. I’m pretty sure I’ve saved myself a few dollars and I recon it should be straight forward from here. Cheers and thanks again for you help.
Youv'e done the hard part by the sound of it.............. if your van as stock when you started then it does point to the feed from battery to Setek so bad connection, switch or dud fuse ......................... a multi meter or simple light tester on the terminals on the setek will soon show if its dead or not, if the terminals on the Setek show power then its either the fuse in the Setek or its dead, if dead just buy a fuse block and connect everything up to that and bin the Setek.......
I would wander around with my trusty multi meter but your a tad far away......................
For 6 grand you would want to be spending a lot of months each year free camping......
I would wander around with my trusty multi meter but your a tad far away......................
For 6 grand you would want to be spending a lot of months each year free camping......
If the system works with the setec plugged in then I would leave it on. Mine runs happily with the extra mppt controllers, high current charger and lithium batteries added.
Thanks for the help guys, I’ll take your advice and have a play with the multi meter at the weekend. It might be something simple jumpin out at me that I can’t see. And yep, me and the minister for war and finance are planning a trip up the East coast of Oz next June. We are not ones for crowded van parks so intend to be as self sufficient as we can.
GR8 information Question to any and all : Setec ST20
Is it possible to put an islating switch between 250v and inverter.
Purpose:
To switch from Mains and inverter utilizing the same 250 mains wiring. probably dumb, just a thought it would be real handy
Is it possible to put an islating switch between 250v and inverter.
Purpose:
To switch from Mains and inverter utilizing the same 250 mains wiring. probably dumb, just a thought it would be real handy
It can be done two different ways I believe. The simple (ish) way is to use an inverter designed to do the switching internally (my friend has one but I can't recall the make) and the complicated way is to use a switch designed for the job plus relays to disable any battery chargers.
Both need some electrical competence as there are several serious danger points - like you must isolate the 240v pins that you plug into an external power source!
I'm with Drover, I much prefer the good old separate inverter power socket(s) so I can see what is plugged in and for how long
Both need some electrical competence as there are several serious danger points - like you must isolate the 240v pins that you plug into an external power source!
I'm with Drover, I much prefer the good old separate inverter power socket(s) so I can see what is plugged in and for how long
The safest and only way is to hard wire one maybe 2, no more, 240v Double Pole GPO's from the invertor and have a sparky set up some sort of RCD for the unit ..... Sparkies aren't usually happy with doing a house Genny Connection, its playing with Fire literally if it goes wrong... and on a legal side it would need to have compliance done on it as well....
Thanks guys for your replies, appreciate it.
Took a while to figure how they worked everything. And that.s the way I figured.
I have removed , the Setec unit, created three circuits
(1) Mains - (Double pole rotary switch) (2) inverter
This allows ALL existing power points to be used on (1) mains or when switched (2) on inverter.
Without possibility of have both active at the same time EITHER ONE OR THE OTHER
(3) 12v is split fused to "Lights" , "Fridge", "aux"
Battery js charged by the solar Thanking you all
Just to confirm that you also disconnect any external 3 pin 240v plug that is used for 'shore power' or a generator. If not, those pins will also be live in inverter mode which is very dangerous
Thank you all so much for you feedback really appreciated.
Confirmed External input is separated through double pole (6 contact) so can be no feedback MAINS or inverter
Confirmed External input is separated through double pole (6 contact) so can be no feedback MAINS or inverter
It is imperative that you have fitted an RCD and ideally an RVD as well for the invertor end as well as one for the mains supply, an RCD with RVD covers all bases otherwise you will have no protection from getting zapped if something goes astray ... even just a bog standard mains connection should have an RVD along with RCD especially if you use generators at all.....
PS::::::: I just remembered ages ago out somewhere I came across a fella who wanted the same thing but couldn't be stuffed ginning around so he just ran a lead from the Invertor in his boot to the mains inlet, advised me to make sure the HWS 240v is off, he also upgraded his RCD to an RCD/RVD as well.... he had a remote for it so it was easy to turn on when needed..... or just swap to genny.
PS::::::: I just remembered ages ago out somewhere I came across a fella who wanted the same thing but couldn't be stuffed ginning around so he just ran a lead from the Invertor in his boot to the mains inlet, advised me to make sure the HWS 240v is off, he also upgraded his RCD to an RCD/RVD as well.... he had a remote for it so it was easy to turn on when needed..... or just swap to genny.
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