Hey All,
I have completed a complete install of a Drifter Control Panel over the past 2 weeks, i did not get Jayco to do it as they did not want to fit in my position. It was not an easy job with no wiring diagram supplied and limited other info.
From some of my questions and interist from others looking to make changes to their current installs it is obvious there is limited info out there.
On some other Forums i frequent, i have seen topical installs summarised to save people pouring over info and comment in threads. I have tried to do the same here to make it a one stop place for people chasing info on this product / subject.
If the moderators see value in this, I am happy for it to be placed as a sticky.
Please note, this is for information only. If you are not comfortable with this type of DIY please do not try and seek qualified advise. I cannot be held responsable for anything problems / injury arising from the below information.
To kick off I am attaching the wiring diagram I managed to obtain near the end of the install, as well as the manual for the unit.
The Panel, it is simple enough with a few screws and and a 50mm Hole saw required for the 5 & 9 pin plugs.
The panel came with 2 prewired looms, a 5 & 9 pin plug
5-Pin, this is the basic info for the panel that comes back from the shunt.
9-Pin, From Left (pin 9) - to right (pin 1),
- Red (9), Blue(8), Grey (7) = Tank senders
- White (5)= common ground wire for Tank Senders
- Yellow (4), Black (3) = Battery switch, disconnects the Setec from mains, thus no charging
- Red (2), Yellow (1) = Pump on / off. This requires connection before tank senders will read.
The tanks senders, mine came as a set of 3 as pictured. You need 4 in each tank to complete the circuit. As i got 4 sets of 3, I bastardised a set to make 3 sets of 4.
When running the wires down to the tank, run a twin cable to each tank. One for the sender wire (Grey / Red stripe) and the other for ground to connect to the common wire / pin (5) mentioned above.
When installing the senders in the tank, a 9.5mm drill is required. Best fitted in the tank outlet side (my case was the RH side) as the tank has a lower point for draining. So the low sender can go in this pocket.
I applied silicone around the whole so the sender pulls down to a good seal, and then smothered the sender to ensure a good seal. Make sure the surface is clean (thinners) as plastic tanks can retain some release agent from the manufacturing process. Allow at least over night before disturbing silicone or flushing.
The senders go in the following order, I have also included my drilling dimensions from the bottom.
Top - Green 205mm from Bottom
2nd Down - Yellow 144mm From Bottom
3rd Down - Blue 83mm From Bottom
Bottom - Ground 22mm From bottom
Once done, remember to flush the tank to remove all the drillings that remain in the tank.
When wiring up the pump, the feed comes back form the HWS on/off switch, so you will need to remove this wire. I found it easier to remove this wire and take a new feed from the batteries to the Control Panel (2 spade terminals on the loom) and then back to the pump.
The wire from the battery is critical to the right wire on the 9 pin plug to supply the feed current for the water senders.
The battery on/off switch, is just a case of finding the wire on the Setec unit and connecting it. The loom was massive.
Connection of the shunt wire is as per the electrical drawing, nothing special their. But if you plan on shortening it (it is waaaay to long) it is in braided sheath, it needs to be earthed to the shunt as per the original loom.
I chose to make a remote buss bar to bring all my NEG to, as the terminal on the shunt is really quite small.
The install should now be complete. All the setup is in the manual supplied with the kit or in the manual attached.
The manual calls for you to teach the panel the batteries you have. Only do this once to set the battery size in the Control Panel.
To do this, turn a few things on. The van will automatically shut down once the Setec see's 10.5v. This is quite low, but it is set by Setec. You will then see charge appear on your panel at around .8amp do not be alarmed at this charge rate. Once the voltage shoes 11.5 volts the charger will kick up to full charge.
Leave the charger on for a day or 2. Once this is complete the panel battery scale will be accurate.
The install is now complete. Happy camping.
I have completed a complete install of a Drifter Control Panel over the past 2 weeks, i did not get Jayco to do it as they did not want to fit in my position. It was not an easy job with no wiring diagram supplied and limited other info.
From some of my questions and interist from others looking to make changes to their current installs it is obvious there is limited info out there.
On some other Forums i frequent, i have seen topical installs summarised to save people pouring over info and comment in threads. I have tried to do the same here to make it a one stop place for people chasing info on this product / subject.
If the moderators see value in this, I am happy for it to be placed as a sticky.
Please note, this is for information only. If you are not comfortable with this type of DIY please do not try and seek qualified advise. I cannot be held responsable for anything problems / injury arising from the below information.
To kick off I am attaching the wiring diagram I managed to obtain near the end of the install, as well as the manual for the unit.
The Panel, it is simple enough with a few screws and and a 50mm Hole saw required for the 5 & 9 pin plugs.
The panel came with 2 prewired looms, a 5 & 9 pin plug
5-Pin, this is the basic info for the panel that comes back from the shunt.
9-Pin, From Left (pin 9) - to right (pin 1),
- Red (9), Blue(8), Grey (7) = Tank senders
- White (5)= common ground wire for Tank Senders
- Yellow (4), Black (3) = Battery switch, disconnects the Setec from mains, thus no charging
- Red (2), Yellow (1) = Pump on / off. This requires connection before tank senders will read.
The tanks senders, mine came as a set of 3 as pictured. You need 4 in each tank to complete the circuit. As i got 4 sets of 3, I bastardised a set to make 3 sets of 4.
When running the wires down to the tank, run a twin cable to each tank. One for the sender wire (Grey / Red stripe) and the other for ground to connect to the common wire / pin (5) mentioned above.
When installing the senders in the tank, a 9.5mm drill is required. Best fitted in the tank outlet side (my case was the RH side) as the tank has a lower point for draining. So the low sender can go in this pocket.
I applied silicone around the whole so the sender pulls down to a good seal, and then smothered the sender to ensure a good seal. Make sure the surface is clean (thinners) as plastic tanks can retain some release agent from the manufacturing process. Allow at least over night before disturbing silicone or flushing.
The senders go in the following order, I have also included my drilling dimensions from the bottom.
Top - Green 205mm from Bottom
2nd Down - Yellow 144mm From Bottom
3rd Down - Blue 83mm From Bottom
Bottom - Ground 22mm From bottom
Once done, remember to flush the tank to remove all the drillings that remain in the tank.
When wiring up the pump, the feed comes back form the HWS on/off switch, so you will need to remove this wire. I found it easier to remove this wire and take a new feed from the batteries to the Control Panel (2 spade terminals on the loom) and then back to the pump.
The wire from the battery is critical to the right wire on the 9 pin plug to supply the feed current for the water senders.
The battery on/off switch, is just a case of finding the wire on the Setec unit and connecting it. The loom was massive.
Connection of the shunt wire is as per the electrical drawing, nothing special their. But if you plan on shortening it (it is waaaay to long) it is in braided sheath, it needs to be earthed to the shunt as per the original loom.
I chose to make a remote buss bar to bring all my NEG to, as the terminal on the shunt is really quite small.
The install should now be complete. All the setup is in the manual supplied with the kit or in the manual attached.
The manual calls for you to teach the panel the batteries you have. Only do this once to set the battery size in the Control Panel.
To do this, turn a few things on. The van will automatically shut down once the Setec see's 10.5v. This is quite low, but it is set by Setec. You will then see charge appear on your panel at around .8amp do not be alarmed at this charge rate. Once the voltage shoes 11.5 volts the charger will kick up to full charge.
Leave the charger on for a day or 2. Once this is complete the panel battery scale will be accurate.
The install is now complete. Happy camping.
