Hi,
firstly, :welcome::welcome::welcome:
exactly as
@Vere describes. I would add one extra detail. Pin 2 on your tug MAY be wired to provide the reversing signal.
This pin has two uses, either as a reversing signal, or as Jayco use it, to provide 12V from your tug.
I would suggest you get a multimeter or a lamp to check how your tug is currently wired. If it is wired as a reversing signal AND you want to have 12V supplied from your tug to provide 12V to the van (to run your lights etc and/or trickle charge your battery while you are driving) then you will need to disconnect the wire presently on pin 2, fold it back and insulate it. Then run a wire from the +ve terminal of your battery via an inline fuse to pin 2. You would probably be advised to use wire about the same size as is on pin 2 of the Jayco plug.
On a Jayco, pin 2 goes to the AUX input of the Setec 12V power supply and battery charger.
Apologies if you already know this. But the two wires you have on pins 9 and 10 go directly to the 12V terminals on the fridge. They do not power anything else on the van NOR do they charge the battery in the van. BUT the fridge will draw at least 15A and will flatten a car battery in 2-3 hours. So, it is recommended you isolate the +VE wire using a Voltage Sensing relay OR a relay that only activates when the ignition is on (i.e. the engine is running and the alternator is supplying the power for the fridge.
Further, if you do want to run the fridge on 12V (many don't bother) AND you want the fridge to work efficiently, you need to use 6AWG (or 6B&S) cable. Otherwise the voltage drop in the cable will be too much and the voltage at the fridge terminals will be too low for the 12V element to supply enough heat for the fridge to work efficiently. Not attending to this is usually the cause of many people experiencing poor performance from their 3-way fridge on 12V.
These are a well-discussed topics and there are many threads discussing this on the forum.
cheers
Mike
